Hints that have been helpful to us in keeping our bunnies happy and healthy.

March Hares Rabbitry - Spring, TX 281-298-2660

©  Bunnies should NOT eat cabbage.  This can give them diarrhea, which can be fatal.  This applies to all leafy greens such as lettuce, spinach etc.  They can have an occasional treat such as a small bit of apple, carrot, or grapes, but remember keep the treat small and infrequent.  If they are fed a good quality pelleted food, this should be all they need.  A bunny tends to have a sensitive digestive tract, and frequent treats or changes in feed can lead to a bunny that is an unhealthy, picky eater with digestive problems.  Also, be careful if you walk them on a leash, as many plants and pesticides can be toxic to your bunny.

©  Heat is one of the bunnies’ worst enemies.  They can do just fine in our Texas winters as long as they are protected from wind and wet.  However, in the summer, they must be protected from overheating!  They must have plenty of fresh water!  They must have shade!  There are several ways to provide cooling:  a fan circulating the air makes a big difference, freezing 2 liter bottles of water to place in the cage, mist their ears several times a day with cool water to aid in evaporative cooling.  The most important things are fresh water to drink, shade, and circulating air.  If you keep them inside the air-conditioning, they will get used to this, and moving them outside can be very stressful for them.  It is best for them to be either all inside or all outside.  It is OK to bring them in for playtime, or grooming, for short periods of time, just not days on end. 

©  Bunnies’ backs are their weak spots.  Make sure they are supported well when carried.  When picking them up, support their bodies well, and use both hands.  Never press down on their backs.

©  Female bunnies are called “does” as in deer, and males are called “bucks.”

©  The Mini Rex breed tends to be prone to  “sore hocks”, or have calloused areas on their back feet.  This is due to the undercoat and guard hairs being the same length; which gives them their wonderful coat.  These can become open sores if not cared for.  This is usually avoided by keeping the bunny healthy, not overweight, nails trimmed, keeping the cage clean and dry, and providing a “foot rest pad” for them to get off of the wire.  The “foot rest pad” is available at many pet stores, or through rabbit supply dealers for $3 - $4.  The foot rest pad must also be kept very clean, as waste can build up on it, resulting in "hutch burn", like a diaper rash in bunnies, but it can be very serious.

©  Mini Rex are a result of a cross between the standard Rex and Netherland Dwarf rabbit. The breed was first recognized as official in 1986.  They were developed by Ms. Mona Berryhill of Wortham, Texas.  They come in a wide variety of colors, with Castor being the first recognized color for the breed.  Their fur has a luxurious, velvety, springy feel. They get to be about 4 pounds as adults, and for the most part have a wonderful disposition.  As with any animal, the more they are handled, they more they get used to being handled. 

©  As the female bunnies mature, they develop a “second chin” called a dewlap.  They also have a tendency to “talk.”  They will squeak, and grunt when you go to pick them up.  Normally this is just noise, but can sound quite intimidating the first time you hear it.  We find that if you just pet them before you pick them up, they will relax, and be much more willing to be removed from their cages.  Females (does) have a tendency to be very territorial. 

 ©  Since bunnies’ eyes are on the sides of their heads, they have a “blind spot” straight ahead, and along the middle of their backs.  It is best to always approach from the side to avoid startling them.  Talk to them as you approach their cage, and as you deal with them.  This will help to keep them calm.

 ©  Most rabbits will live happy, healthy lives for 8-10 years if well cared for.  This is a long commitment to be responsible for an animal.  This should be well thought through before obtaining one as a pet.  They don’t require a lot.  They do need a cage, which allows them to move around well.  A cage with a wire bottom is best, as it will allow waste to fall through.  A bottom made of welded 14 gauge wire is best, as it provides more surface area for the feet to rest on, and is sturdy.  In addition you will need a way to provide them with fresh feed and water at all times.  It is best to find out how much food they eat on a daily basis, and give this to them once daily, or even divide the amount in ½ and give to them morning and evening.  A general rule of thumb for an adult rabbit is one ounce of feed per pound of rabbit per day.

 ©  Dust from the feed is normal, but not good in large amounts for the bunny.  Because of this it is important to keep the feed container clean.  Feeders, which hang on the cage and have wire mesh bottoms allowing the dust to fall through, are also available. 

©  The best feeds are usually the ones with only the “boring” green pellets.   These should contain everything the bunny needs nutritionally.  The ones with the “cute” shapes and fruits etc.  will tend to make fat bunnies, which aren’t as healthy and picky eaters, as they will pick out the “junk food” or treats and leave the nutritional pellets. Find a green pellet that smells like hay.

©  There are many good brands of pelleted feed.  It is important to find one that works well for your bunny and stick with it.  If you should need to change brands, do so gradually.  Mixing some of the new into the old at each feeding; gradually increasing the new until they are eating just the new feed.

©  Plenty of fresh water is a necessity!  A large water bottle keeps the water cleaner, but a crock that cannot be tipped over is also fine as long as it is kept clean and full. 

©  A good indicator of your bunnies’ health status is its droppings.  These should for the most part be round, rather dry and solid.  If they should become pasty or very wet, it is important to increase fiber.  The easiest way to do this is with hay.  The hay cubes are a convenient, neat way to do this and are available at most pet supply stores, and places, which have a fairly large assortment of pet supplies. Bulk hay is fine as well, but it is important to give “horse quality” grass or timothy hay.  The  “horse quality” is lower in molds and dust, which can cause respiratory problems in bunnies.

We hope you find these items helpful.  We are not experts or veterinarians, just folk raising rabbits and enjoying them.  These are simply things we have learned along the way through trial and error, and from other more experienced breeders.  Most are things we feel are very important to the health and well being of our bunnies.